Horse Health

Horse IV Injection: How to inject a horse IV (into the vein or intravenously) – 8-Step Guide with Video

Injecting a horse intravenously (IV) can be a delicate and important procedure that should only be performed by a trained and experienced Veterinarian or horse person. However, here are 8 simple steps that can help in the process: 1. Prepare the medication: Make sure you have the medication prepared and ready to administer before approaching the horse. It’s important to ensure that the medication is the correct dosage and that it has been properly mixed, prepared and stored and there are little to no air bubbles present. 2. Choose the vein: Identify the vein you want to inject. The most common vein in horses is the jugular vein. This vein runs along the side of the neck in a groove called the “jugular groove” just above the trachea. 3. Restrain the horse: It is important to properly restrain the horse to avoid injury to the horse and the person administering the injection. Usually, horses are restrained with a halter and lead rope and are held by an assistant. 4. Raise the vein. Occlude or block off the blood vessel mid-way along the neck until you see the vein raise up with blood to be able to visualise where to place the needle. Do this by placing your thumb flat across the jugular groove. 5. Insert the needle: Insert the needle slowly into the vein at a 30-degree angle. If you feel resistance, do not force the needle. Try to reposition it slightly. Once the needle is in the vein, blood should flash into the hub of the syringe (where the needle attaches to the syringe). Make sure that the needle is securely in place, and that there is no leakage from the injection site. 6. Administer the medication: Slowly inject the medication into the vein. The rate at which the medication is injected will depend on the specific medication and the dosage. The injection should be done slowly to minimize the risk of complications such as swelling or other reactions. 7. Remove the needle: Once the medication has been administered, remove the needle slowly and carefully. Apply pressure to the injection site to prevent bleeding. 8. Observe the horse: After the injection, it is important to observe the horse for any adverse reactions or complications. Signs of an adverse reaction may include swelling, difficulty breathing, or other abnormal behaviour. It is important to remember that IV injections should only be administered by a trained and experienced veterinarian or horse person. Improper injection technique or the use of contaminated equipment can lead to serious complications and even death of the horse. Video: How To Inject a Horse IV

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Horse IM Injection: How to inject a horse IM (into the muscle or intramuscular) – 8-Step Guide with Video

Injecting a horse intramuscularly (IM) is a common procedure used to administer medications such as vaccines, antibiotics, and anti-inflammatory drugs. Here are the general steps for administering an IM injection to a horse: Step By Step Guide Step 1. Gather supplies. You will need the medication, a sterile needle (usually 1-1.5 inches in length), and a sterile syringe (usually 3-30 cc depending on the medication being administered). Step 2. Choose the injection site. The most common injection site is the neck, in the muscle group located just in front of the shoulder blade. Choose a spot that is free of any lumps, bumps, broken skin or other abnormalities. Make sure you are not too high in the nuchal ligament, or too low in the cervical vertebrae to inject. Make sure you are in the “Safe triangle” to inject in the neck. Step 3. Prepare the syringe. Draw up the medication into the syringe, being sure to expel any air bubbles. Make sure if you are drawing from a bottle you hold the bottle upside down to allow the medication to enter the syringe. Step 4. Insert the needle. Hold the syringe and needle like a dart, with the bevel (slanted end) of the needle pointing up. Insert the needle into the muscle at a 90-degree angle and with a quick, smooth motion. The most painful part is going through the skin so be quick. Often grabbing a pinch of skin in front of where you are going to inject will distract the horse enough to allow the needle to go in without flinching. Step 5. Aspirate. Before injecting the medication, gently pull back on the plunger to check for blood. If you see blood, withdraw the needle and try again in a different spot. Step 6. Inject the medication. If no blood is present, slowly inject the medication into the muscle. Step 7. Withdraw the needle. After the medication is injected, quickly and smoothly remove the needle. Step 8. Dispose of supplies. Discard the needle and syringe in a sharps container or other appropriate container. Video: How To Inject A Horse IM Conclusion It’s important to note that if you’re not experienced with administering injections to horses, it’s best to have a veterinarian or experienced equine professional show you how to do it properly. Additionally, it’s important to always follow the medication instructions and dosage guidelines provided by your veterinarian. Read More – Horse IV Injection: How to inject a Horse IV

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What is Colic In Horses? Causes, Symptoms and Treatment Of Colic.

As a horse lover, it’s essential to understand the causes, treatment, and prevention of colic in horses. Colic is a broad term used to describe any form of abdominal discomfort, pain, or digestive upset in horses. It’s a common health issue that can affect horses of all breeds, ages, and sizes, and can range from mild to severe cases. It is the number 1 cause of death in horses What Causes Colic in Horses There are many reasons why horses get colic. The most common causes include: What are the signs of Colic In Horses? In horses colic symptoms can vary depending on the severity of the condition, but some common signs include: How To Treat Colic In Horses? In horses If you suspect that your horse has colic, you should contact your veterinarian immediately. While you wait for the vet to arrive, there are some steps you can take to help relieve the horse’s discomfort. Video: Let’s Discuss Colic In Horses, Causes, Symptoms and treatment of Colic. When to Call the Vet Colic is a medical emergency, and you should always contact your veterinarian if you suspect that your horse has colic. The vet can perform a physical examination and take appropriate measures to relieve the horse’s pain and discomfort. Conclusion In conclusion, colic is a common health issue in horses, but it can be prevented and treated with proper care and attention to your horse’s diet, hydration, and stress levels. As a responsible horse owner, it’s your duty to recognize the signs of colic and take immediate action to ensure your horse’s health and well-being. Remember, when in doubt, always call your vet!

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54 Toxic Weeds for Horses in Australia

TOXIC WEEDS For Horses IN AUSTRALIA Your guide to toxic weeds for horses in Australia, including where and when they grow. This document is a basic field guide toweeds that are toxic to horses in Australia. It’s ahelpful resource that you can keep on fileto identify and protect your horse fromtoxin poisoning. Each weed has a code in brackets at the endof the name (i.e. Paterson’s Curse PA), whichrelates to the type of toxin present. The different types of toxins are listed atthe end of this document, along with thesymptoms your horse may display if poisoninghas occurred. Each weed is displayed in a photo for easyidentification, along with information about thestate it grows in, and the time of year it growsor flowers. The level of toxicity present in each weed isalso displayed, indicating whether it’s midly,moderately or highly dangerous to horses. Horses are very selective when grazing. Mostwon’t eat weeds unless there is no otheroption (i.e. in drought conditions) or if hay orfeeds given are contaminated. Some weeds in their dried form are still quitetoxic to horses, so it’s always advisable tocheck hay before giving it to horses for anyforeign weeds. Paterson’s Curse (PA) | Echium plantagineum[Boraginaceae](Salvation Jane, Lady Campbell Weed, Purple Bugloss,Riverina Bluebell, etc.)Location : Located in all states. Declared noxiousweed, except QLD and ACT.Season: Short-lived Winter annual.Danger Level: Highly dangerous, usually unpalatableto horses. All parts of the plant are toxic and thetoxicity is not lost in dried plants. Paterson’s Cursegrows to 90cm. Flowering occurs in early Spring. Crotalarias (PA) | Echium plantagineum[Fabacaeae](Kimberly Horse Poison, Grey Rattlepod, NarrowleafRattlepod, Yellow Rattlepod, etc.)Location : Not in VIC or TAS. Season: Most species are annual, with some beingperennial. Some species are native.Danger Level: : Highly dangerous, usually unpalatableto horses. Plants in Crotalaria genus are knownas ‘rattlepods’ because the seeds rattle inside thedeflated seedpod when shaken. A horse poisoned issaid to be suffering ‘Crotalism’, ‘Walkabout Disease’or ‘Kimberly Horse Disease’. Ragwort (PA) | Senecio jacobaea[Asteraceae](Tansy Ragwort, Common Ragwort, Stagger Wort,Stinking Willy, St James’ Wort, etc.)Location : Declared noxious weed in VIC, TAS, NSW,SA and WA. Season: Long-lived perennial that grows to 1.2m.Ragwort usually flowers in Summer. The flowers arebright yellow. The plant gives off an upleasant smellwhen damaged.Danger Level: : Moderate danger Fireweed | Senecio jacobaea[Asteraceae](Madagascar Ragwort, Senecio Amarillo, etc.)Location : The plant has spread rapidly in Australia,particularly in the past 30 years and is a significantproblem for famers. Declared noxious weed in QLD,NSW, ACT and WA. Season: Short-lived annual that grows 10-50cm tall.Danger Level: Moderate danger. Fireweed is nativeto southern Africa and Madagascar. Blue Heliotrope (PA) | Heliotropiumamplexicaule [Boraginaceae](Wild Verbena, Clasping Heliotrope, Purpletop,Turnsole, Wild Heliotrope, Creeping Heliotrope, etc.)Location : QLD, NSW, VIC and SA. Declared noxiousweed in NSW and WA. Season: Summer-growing perennial that grows to30cm. The plant produces a flush of growth fromAutumn to Spring, and flowering usually occurs fromNovember through Summer and into early Autumn.Danger Level: Moderate danger. Common Heliotrope (PA) | Heliotropiumeuropaeum [Boraginaceae](Potato Weed, European Heliotrope, Barooga Weed,Wanderie Curse, Bishop’s Beard, Caterpillar Weed,etc.)Location : Declared noxious weed in WA and TAS,located in all states. Season: Short lived annual that grows to 30cm.Danger Level: Moderate danger. Heliotropium Ovalifolium (PA) |[Boraginaceae](Heliotropium coromandelianum var. ovalifolium,Heliotropium gracile, etc.)Location : WA, NT, QLD and SA.located in all states. Season: Perennial that grows 15-80cm.Danger Level: Moderate danger. Amsinckias |[Boraginaceae](Amsinckia calycina, Amsinckia lycopsoides,Amsinckia intermedia and Amsinckia menziesii.)(Amsinckia, Yellow Burrweeds, Fiddlenecks, etc.) Itis thought these plants may not be separate species,but different forms of one species.Location : Declared noxious weeds in VIC, SA andWA, located in all states. Season: Short-lived perennial that grows 10-50cm.Flowering occurs from late Winter to Spring. Theflowers are tube-shaped, and yellow or orange.Danger Level: Moderate danger. Blue Canary Grass (TA) |Phalariscoerulescens [Poaceae]Location : NSW, VIC and TAS. Season: Short-lived perennial that survives for 3-4years. It grows vigorously in Autumn and Spring,especially after rain. The grass continues its growththrough Winter and has a Summer dormancy period.In cool, high rainfall areas, the grass maintains growththrough Summer. Flowering occurs in late Spring.Danger Level: Highly dangerous. Paradoxa Grass (TA) |Phalaris paradoxa[Poaceae]Location : Located in all states, except TAS. Season: Annual. It grows mainly in Winter andSpring, and can grow vigorously after rain. The seedsgerminate in Autumn to early Winter. Floweringoccurs in late Spring.Danger Level: Highly dangerous. Smooth Darling Pea |Swainsona galegifolia[Fabaceae](Swainsona, etc.)Location : QLD, NSW, VIC and NT. Season: Perennial that grows to 1m. The plantflowers in Spring.Danger Level: Highly dangerous. Hairy Darling Pea |Swainsona greyanaLocation : QLD, NSW and SA.Season: Perennial that grows to 1.5m. The plant flowers in Spring.Danger Level: Highly dangerous. Grey Swainsona |Swainsona canescensLocation : WA, NT, QLD and SA. Season: Perennial that grows to 60cm or higher infavourable conditions. The plant flowers from Maythrough to December.Danger Level: Highly dangerous. Broughton Pea |Swainsona procumbensLocation : QLD, NSW and VIC. Season: Perennial that grows 30-50cm. The plantflowers in Spring.Danger Level: Highly dangerous. Dwarf Darling Pea |Swainsona luteolaLocation : QLD, NSW and SA. Season: Perennial that grows to 50cm. The plantflowers in Spring.Danger Level: Highly dangerous. English Yew (TAX) | Taxus baccata[Taxaceae]Location : NSW, VIC and TAS. Season: Evergreen tree that can grow to 20m. Thetree has a dark trunk that is quite thick in matureplants. It flowers in Spring.Danger Level: Highly dangerous. Field Bindweed (TROP) | Convolvulusarvensis [Convulvulaceae](Common Bindweed, Morning Glory, Field MorningGlory, etc.)Location : Located in all states. Declared noxiousweek in VIC, SA and WA. Season: The vine flowers in Spring to early Autumn,with most flowers appearing in Summer.Danger Level: Moderate danger, however, no casesof Field Bindweed poisoning have been reported inAustralia. Thornapples (TROP) | Datura spp[Solanaceae]The plants in the Datura genus are commonly knownas thornapples. There are several native thornapples,but most of the species that grow in Australia wereintroduced as garden ornamentals.Location : Located in all states. Season: Summer-growing annual. They range inheight from 50cm-2m, but most grow to 1m.Danger Level: Moderate danger. Angel’s Trumpet (TROP) | Brugmansia spp[Solanaceae]Location : Located in all states, except NT. Season:Grown in Australia as garden ornamentalsand some species have naturalised in some areas ofAustralia. Perennial shrubs or small trees that cangrow to 5m, but most are around 3m.Danger Level: Low danger. Poison Corkwood (TROP) | Duboisiamyoporoides [Solanceae]Location : East coast of Australia, SA and NT. Season: Native to Australia. Shrub or tree that cangrow to 9m. The bark of the tree is thick and ‘corky’,and is yellowish-brown to pale grey in colour. PoisonCorkwood flowers in Winter and Spring.Danger Level: Low danger. Corkwood (TROP) | Duboisia leichhardtii[Solanaceae](Poisonous Corkwood, Queensland Duboisia, YellowBasswood, etc.)Location : QLD and northern NSW. Season: Native to

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Should I give my horse an enema if they have colic

Should I give my horse an enema if they have colic?

Administering an enema without the instruction or presence of your veterinarian can lead to serious complications. Instead, if you suspect your horse has colic, you should call your veterinarian who will be able to perform all procedures safely and efficiently. Things to consider before administering an Enema to your Horse The horse’s rectum is very fragile and, even if you’ve given an enema to another horse previously, you can cause rectal tears. Such tears can lead to secondary peritonitis, which is inflammation of the abdominal lining – a condition which can be fatal.  Enemas can also make your horse strain causing unnecessary pain and can often worsen the condition. In addition, enemas are rarely useful in horses older than newborns as the intestinal tract is large and the impaction may simply be out of reach of the enema solution. If a horse has impaction colic, there are other steps which can be taken, including: Consult a Qualified Veterinarian Providing enemas to horses is often a contentious issue. However, regardless of your opinion on the use of enemas, no medical procedure should be done without the instruction or presence of a qualified veterinarian. If you suspect your horse has colic, including impaction colic, the first step you should take is to call your veterinarian. They will be able to examine your horse, make a diagnosis, and implement a treatment plan – safely and efficiently. Read More About Horse Colic

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Is it safe to worm my mare if she is in foal?

Most wormers are safe to use on horses throughout pregnancy. However, it’s imperative you check the label first to ensure the wormer you’re using has been tested and approved as safe for use in pregnant mares. Worming Your Mare Worming is a fundamental component of horse-keeping, including for pregnant mares. While most horses can live comfortably with a small number of internal parasites, high worm burdens can place the health of your mare – and her unborn foal – at unnecessary risk. Mares should continue to be wormed normally throughout every stage of pregnancy. Usually all horses should be wormed every 8 – 12 weeks or as per recommendations given by your veterinarian following a faecal egg count. In addition, you should worm your mare on the day she foals and change paddocks. You can also take other steps to reduce the worm population on your property, including regularly removing manure from paddocks and resting paddocks during hot, dry weather. Worming Your Foal When your foal arrives, you’ll need to start planning their worming regime. Both mare and foal should be wormed when your foal reaches 6-8 weeks of age. However, if large roundworms are present on your property, you may need to start worming from 7 days with a specific wormer. Foals should receive at least four worming doses in their first year of life. As your foal reaches 12-15 months of age, they should have developed a strong immunity. Just like any other horse, their worming program may need to change to give them the highest level of protection. Read More About Horse Worming

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What is the Best Rug for My Horse?

Rugging Horses – What is the Best Rug for My Horse?

Walk into any tack store and you’ll find a myriad of horse rugs — from ripstop and waterproof, to wool and polar fleece. But, how do you choose the best rug for your horse, do you need more than one and should you rug your horse at all? In this article, we focus on rugging horses during the cooler months of Autumn and Winter. Horses possess a natural layer of insulation — a thick Winter coat — that shields them from the elements and protects them from the cold. Even at temperatures as low as zero degrees celsius, a thick Winter coat can help a fit and healthy horse withstand the cold without rugging. However, there are a number of occasions where rugging is recommended, including: Let’s delve into these a little deeper… For Young, Old and Unwell Young, growing horses, including foals, and senior horses are often more susceptible to cold conditions and typically require rugging to keep warm. However, regardless of age, any horse with low immune defences will also benefit from an additional layer of insulation in Autumn and Winter. For A Competition Coat To prevent a thick Winter coat for shows and competitive events, light rugging should commence from early Autumn and continue throughout Winter. But, be mindful of weather conditions and check on your horse regularly to ensure they are remaining comfortable in their rug. For Windy and Rainy Conditions While horses can stay warm with a thick Winter coat at temperatures well below zero, wind chill and heavy rainfall may eventually penetrate. During these conditions, use a blanket with adequate insulation to trap heat and avoid lightweight blankets as they can have the opposite effect. For Acclimatising to the Cold If your horse has recently re-located to a colder climate, they may require rugging for a period of 10-21 days. Shivering, a tense or stiff stance, cold ears, erect coat, turning their hindquarters to the wind and huddling with other horses are common signs your horse may be feeling the cold. For Reducing Your Feed Bill A high fiber diet not only supports hindgut health, but promotes warmth during Winter. Horses may require more than 1.5-2.5% of their bodyweight in roughage per day. If hay and pasture sources are scarce, rugging is helpful, but shouldn’t be used to replace your horse’s diet. Rugging Horses When getting started with rugs, a good rule of thumb is go lighter, than heavier. As humans, we often feel the temperature differently to our horses, and over-heating is a real danger when rugging. Starting with a lightweight Winter rug will allow you to learn your horse’s comfort signs. Where possible, avoid too many layers. More rugs means more chances of becoming tangled and leading to injury.

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Winter Care for Senior Horses – My Old Horse Struggles in Winter. What Can I Do to Help Them?

With sensible management and sound nutrition, you can help your golden oldie weather the Winter months ahead. In this article, we discuss Winter Care for Senior Horses and how you can support your senior horse in a colder climate. Autumn Health Check While veterinary advances are improving the lives of senior horses, many common challenges of aging are aggravated during Winter. For your senior horse, difficulties maintaining weight, mobility, and immunity may become compromised without proper care. An annual Autumn health check is imperative for senior horses. In Autumn, your senior horse should receive a visit from your veterinarian to ensure they’re prepared for the rigors of Winter. This annual Autumn health check will assess the: Body Condition  Ideally, diet changes should begin in Autumn to ensure your senior horse enters Winter in good body condition. A body condition score of 3/5 is recommended. At this weight range, fat is evenly distributed over the body, but the horse isn’t carrying excessive weight. A physical and visual assessment, with the support of your veterinarian, will help you determine your senior horse’s body condition score. The ribs should be easily felt, but not visible, the withers rounded, the back level and the tail head slightly spongy. Nutrition and Diet Any senior horse that is currently overweight or underweight will require changes to their feeding regime before Winter. Both weight issues are detrimental to a senior horse’s health and comfort. An underweight horse will struggle to regulate body temperature, while obesity damages joints. Together with your veterinarian, you should develop a Winter feeding regime for your senior horse. Their diet should be formulated to maintain optimum body condition and provide warmth throughout Winter with quality roughage sources that can be easily chewed and digested. Overall Health Any health issue can become even more arduous during Winter. Your veterinarian should perform a complete physical examination of your senior horse (Download Free Guide), including vital signs, teeth, and hooves. This is also a prime opportunity to discuss their vaccination and de-worming schedule. Some of the common health problems that may worsen for the senior horse in Winter include:

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Farrier Rasp

To Shoe or Not to Shoe My Horse?

That is the question! But, the answer is not always simple. Above all, the decision to shoe a horse or leave them barefoot depends on three factors — the health of your horse’s hooves, their daily management and the quality of the trim.  Shoeing may, at times, divide opinions. However, in all aspects of horse care, the most important consideration is the horse. Will the decision to shoe or not to shoe benefit their health, wellbeing and soundness? And, the answer may change at different stages of their life. Proper hoof care is the foundation for lifelong health. Young horses may receive their first farrier visit at just one or two months of age to set them up with strong, well-balanced hooves in preparation for their lives ahead. However, the hooves are usually left barefoot. Often, it’s not until horses begin their riding careers that shoes are deemed necessary. In this article, we present the three factors that determine if a horse requires shoes. Ultimately, the decision to shoe should be discussed with your veterinarian and hoof care professional. Hoof Health First, the decision to shoe a horse should be based on the health of their hooves. A horse with strong, healthy and sound hooves may not require shoeing at all. Together, good conformation, correct nutrition, proper hoof care and favourable ground conditions support a horse’s hoof health. If your horse’s hooves are healthy, shoeing may be unnecessary. Management and Training However, the need for shoes may arise, depending on your horse’s management and training. Many competitive horse sports require shoes and this may determine your decision to shoe. Likewise, horses in moderate to heavy work, or those ridden over rough terrain, may benefit from shoes. In these cases, correctly fitted shoes, replaced every 4-6 weeks, are recommended. Hoof Care Regardless of whether you choose to shoe or not, a qualified hoof care professional is paramount. While shoeing and barefoot trimming both have their places in horse management, an improper job will always cause harm. A professional farrier or hoof trimmer will ensure each hoof is evenly trimmed and balanced, and show genuine care for your horse’s health and wellbeing. In addition, a well-respected, experienced and trusted farrier or hoof trimmer will be able to guide you on all aspects of your horse’s hoof care throughout every stage of their life.

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My Horse is Losing Condition, Why?

Unexpected weight loss, resulting in poor body condition, endangers your horse’s health. With the support of your veterinarian, the underlying cause can be diagnosed and a management plan developed to promote safe weight gain and healthy body condition.  Sudden or chronic weight loss is detrimental to horse health. There are a number of reasons why your horse may be losing weight and determining the cause on your own is often challenging. Involving your veterinarian from the outset is recommended. They will perform a full physical examination, including dental exam, and may take blood and manure samples for analysis. In some cases, further testing may be required to rule out a health problem. Your veterinarian can also assess your horse’s diet. Poor quality roughage, including your own pasture, may be linked to your horse’s weight loss. Your veterinarian will be able to offer guidance on analysing the quality of your pasture and hay with laboratory testing. Five Common Causes of Weight Loss For those horse owners who want to learn more about the common causes of unexpected weight loss, we’ve outlined the top five below. Your knowledge of what’s normal for your horse will help your veterinarian determine the reason behind your horse’s weight loss. Stress  Particularly for the highly strung horse, stress may contribute to unexpected weight loss. A sudden change in environment, diet, training, or the occurrence of a health problem, can affect your horse’s appetite. Together, stress and decreased feed consumption may trigger the formation of gastric ulcers, resulting in pain and further perpetuating the issue of weight loss.   Intestinal Parasites  With inefficient worming, intestinal parasites may proliferate and lead to malnutrition problems. Intestinal parasites can wreak havoc on your horse’s health if not kept in check with regular worming. When allowed to increase to large numbers, these parasites compete for the nutrients present in your horse’s feed and cause damage to the lining of their gastrointestinal tract.  Dental Problems  Poor dental health, including difficulty chewing, may play a role in unexpected weight loss.  Of the various issues that can occur, sharp enamel points are often implicated in weight loss. Caused by uneven wear, missing or misaligned teeth, the immense pain may force your horse to chew awkwardly, drop food while eating or avoid some foods, such as roughage, altogether.   Illness or Disease  Chronic diseases can deplete your horse’s appetite or impact on their digestion.  Liver and kidney disease cause physiological damage to these vital organs, often resulting in weight loss. Some cancers are known to produce inflammatory hormones which may affect digestion, in turn, decreasing your horse’s appetite and leading to weight loss.  Diet  An inadequate diet, low in calories or vital nutrients, may deplete body condition. The importance of a well-balanced, forage-first diet cannot be underestimated. For horses with high caloric needs, such as young, growing horses, lactating mares and performance athletes, a diet insufficient in energy, protein, vitamins and minerals may contribute to weight loss.

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