Author name: Dr Louise Cosgrove

The founder of Exclusively Equine Veterinary Services, Louise is driven to support horses in their recovery from injury or illness. A graduate of the University of Queensland, with international equine reproduction experience, Louise loves helping clients breed their dream horses. Empathetic and understanding, she is a true horse lover. Her favourite is a Standardbred named Misty.

Which Saddle Should I Buy?

Step into any saddlery and you’ll find a vast array of styles, fabrics and prices. But, not all saddles will be suitable for you and your horse. Choosing a saddle is one of the most important decisions you’ll make as a horse owner as it’ll influence every ride. In this article, we discuss the three key things to consider when choosing a saddle. 1. Fit Above all, the most important consideration when choosing a saddle is the correct fit for horse and rider. With time, incorrect saddle fit will lead to health and behavioural problems for your horse; not to mention, a saddle that is too big or too small will also affect your own riding position. 2. Style In addition to correct fit, you’ll need to consider the riding activities you have planned for your horse. If you intend to compete, your choice of the saddle will be dictated by discipline. However, if you’re a leisure rider, a general all-purpose English or Western saddle will usually suffice. 3. Fabric While saddles have traditionally been made of leather, synthetic saddles are also very popular. The choice between leather and synthetic is often a personal preference. Regardless of the style you select, always check the finish, stitching and fittings carefully before buying. Cheap saddles often don’t last, especially in Australian weather. New or Used? A saddle is one of the most expensive items you’ll need in your tack room. However, fit, comfort and quality should never be compromised for a bargain price. While you may save a few dollars initially, a cheap saddle could end up costing you more in veterinary and therapy bills. Thankfully, many saddleries offer secondhand saddles. If you’re on a budget, this may be the best option for you. A reputable saddlery will assist you in checking the condition of the tree, stress points and wear to ensure the saddle is fit for purpose and guaranteed to last. Our Advice Any saddle you buy should be purchased with the assistance of a qualified and respected saddle fitter. They will remove the guesswork, and help you select the right saddle for you and your horse that meets your requirements for correct fit, comfort and quality.

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Should I Rug My Horse in Summer?

The choice to rug your horse must be considered carefully, especially in Summer when they can easily overheat as a result of over-rugging. In this article, we share the reasons for and against rugging in Summer, so you can choose wisely for your horse. Yes, Your Horse May Need a Rug Inappropriate rugging can become a welfare issue, particularly in Australia where heat and humidity can climb to extremes in Summer. However, there will be some exceptional circumstances where your horse may benefit from a rug, such as: Your horse suffers from Queensland Itch or another skin condition caused by biting insects Your horse has areas of sensitive pink skin Your horse has a dark coloured coat But, even in these circumstances, rugging must be approached with caution. Let’s explain this further with the examples above. If you decide to rug your horse in an effort to shield them from biting insects, you must check under their rug frequently for signs of sweating. By stabling your horse when biting insects are at their most active, rugging may be avoided altogether. Horses with areas of non-pigmented skin may benefit from use of a lightweight rug and fly mask, designed for Summer conditions. However, rugging may not be necessary if you apply zinc regularly over sensitive areas to protect them from harmful UV rays. Lastly, while horses with dark coloured coats may benefit from a lightweight, white rug, a paddock with ample shade and shelter will provide them with opportunities to escape the sun. Rather than rugging, your horse will be able to manage their own core body temperature. No, Your Horse Doesn’t Need a Rug For most horses, rugging in Summer is simply unnecessary. Even lightweight Summer rugs can prevent your horse from cooling themselves effectively. Horses rely on sweating to maintain a safe core body temperature. When a rug is used, air cannot pass over their body to evaporate the sweat and cool their body. Rugging should only be considered if your horse genuinely requires it, such as in the examples above. If you intend to rug your horse to avoid a faded coat or as part of your show preparation, be mindful of the heat and humidity, and check your horse often for signs of sweating.

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What is the Fastest Way to Get My Horse Fit?

A horse’s fitness is one of the foundations for good health. However, improving fitness encompasses health, diet and training. In this article, we share practical advice for building your horse’s strength, stamina and flexibility, with results seen within days. While performance is one of the core purposes of any exercise program, it’s important to remember a fit horse in good body condition not only performs better but: Recovers faster Avoids injuries Remains healthy Before Training Begins However, before any training begins, it’s critical you assess your horse’s health, body condition and level of fitness. Any horse with compromised health, for example, overcoming a serious injury or in poor condition, is not ready to commence an exercise program. One of the most common mistakes of any exercise program is commencing regular training too quickly. Before improving fitness, you may need to focus on your horse’s rehabilitation or weight to ensure they are healthy, sound and ready to return to work. Health Even if your horse appears in good health, they should receive a visit from your veterinarian before training commences. Hoof and dental care, vaccinations and de-worming should be up to date. In addition, a complete physical examination should check: Your horse’s vital signs, posture, attitude and general health The lower legs and any signs of joint, tendon or ligament compromise Your horse’s gaits — particularly looking for any indication of lameness 2. Body Condition A body condition score of 3 is ideal before your horse begins training. In this instance, your horse can return to light work immediately. However, if your horse is overweight or underweight, you’ll need to factor this into your exercise program. Overweight: A horse with a score of 4-5 or more will need to lose weight, which can be achieved by returning to a forage-first diet, restricting unnecessary calories in the form of starches and sugars, and slowly increasing training in duration and intensity. Underweight: A horse with a score of 2 or less will need to gain weight. A forage first diet, low in starches and sugars, and supported by added vitamins and minerals is recommended. Only when they’ve reached a healthy body condition should they begin training. 3. Level of Fitness Now your horse has a clean bill of health and they’re ready to return to work, you need to consider their level of fitness. Your horse’s level of fitness will largely determine their new exercise and diet regime. Remember, training and diet work together to support your horse’s fitness. Foundation phase: The first stage of your exercise program should promote cardiovascular fitness, along with joint, tendon and ligament strength. Daily hacks, which integrate walk, trot, canter and hill work, are suggested over a period of 6-8 weeks. Preparation phase: The second stage of your exercise program should work the specific muscle groups involved in your chosen discipline. If you intend to leave the trails for competition, your daily training sessions should include exercises relevant to that sport. Training should increase gradually in duration and intensity; only increasing by around 5% each week as your horse’s level of fitness increases. Each training session must also include adequate time for warm up and cool down to reduce the risk of injury. Within just 7-10 days of daily work, cardiovascular fitness may markedly improve. However, patience is the best approach when developing any exercise program. Always be mindful of your horse following exercise and monitor their vital signs vigilantly.

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How Do I Build Topline on My Horse?

Composed of muscle, the strength of your horse’s topline has a direct impact on their health, performance and trainability, especially when under saddle. In this article, we explain how to build topline muscle with the correct diet, lifestyle and training. When a horse moves, the topline muscles of the neck, withers, back, loin and hindquarters — specifically, the gluteal, dorsal and cervical extensor muscles — work together. However, with the addition of a rider, the pressure on these integral muscles increases. In a horse with a weak back, the fragile vertebrae of the spine sag, resulting in poor movement and putting the horse at risk of serious health and behavioural problems. In contrast, a horse with a strong back, due to a healthy topline, will appear relaxed, with powerful and even movement, and the ability to work in self-carriage. If your horse has a clean bill of health and you’d like to improve their topline, muscle development can be promoted with a combination of diet, lifestyle and training. All three of these things are required.  Doing one without the others is pointless. Diet Protein, composed of amino acids, is the building block of muscles. To enhance topline muscle, a 500kg horse requires 630-900g of quality protein per day. While protein can be found in pasture and hay, many performance horses benefit from additional protein in the diet. In particular, the essential amino acids lysine, methionine and threonine. As their name suggests, these amino acids are imperative to muscle development and cannot be synthesised by the horse’s body. A supplement containing these essential amino acids is recommended. Lifestyle Regular movement promotes muscle development. In addition to training, your horse should be turned out daily, preferably with paddock mates, to encourage movement. Not only will they benefit from the extra exercise, their health and wellbeing will also be supported. However, there are several other lifestyle factors which foster a healthy topline, including: Feed off the ground: By offering feed and roughage on the ground, with the use of a rubber feeder or mat, your horse will take the correct stance at feed time, rather than elevate their head and neck to reach items above ground level. Support hoof health: A horse with healthy and sound hooves is able to move freely and correctly. In contrast any horse with hoof pain may compensate by re-directing bodyweight and, as a result, lose muscle tone over the back. Check saddle fit: By regularly checking saddle fit, you’ll protect the lifelong health of your horse. Incorrect saddle fit results in back pain and a number of health problems, as does your riding position if uneven and unbalanced. Training Lastly, with training, your horse’s topline muscle will improve dramatically. Be patient with your horse’s progress and allow adequate time to prepare for your next competition. Week 1: For a horse in light work, start with one hour hacks in walk per day. Allow your horse to stretch on a long rein and integrate hill work into your routine. Week 2: By the second week, add trotting into your daily one hour hacks. Maintain a long rein, so your horse can continue stretching, and continue the hill work. Week 3: Next, you can add some canter. Be considerate of your horse’s level of fitness and keep the pace slow. Adding trots through knee deep water is also beneficial. Week 4: Now you’re ready to step into the arena. Over the coming weeks, introduce school work with circles, loops, changes in direction and numerous transitions. As your horse’s training continues, shorten the reins and ask for collection. Remember to warm up and warm down during every training session. You may also like to try some gentle stretching exercises with your horse in-hand.

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What Do I Need to Do to Get My Horse ‘Show Ready’?

It’s showtime! While there are many last minute items to check off your list, including packing the float, preparation for a successful show often begins a few weeks in advance. In this article, we discuss the five steps to your best show season yet. When you step into the show ring, all eyes are on you and your horse. But, what does it take to make you two a winning combination? If you truly want to turn heads this show season, then you must consider your horse’s health, nutrition and coat. Daily grooming Grooming should be part of your horse’s daily regime. A daily groom stimulates the hair follicles and massages the skin, releasing natural oils and creating a brilliant shine. Start by using a curry comb over the muscled areas, including the neck, shoulders, mid-section and hindquarters, to remove dust, dirt and hair. Then, follow with a body brush over the entire body. You may also need to use a dandy brush to remove any mud from your horse’s lower legs. When brushing your horse’s tail, focus on the dock area to promote hair growth. Using a comb, gently remove any knots and burrs from the mane and tail. Don’t forget to check and clean out your horse’s hooves daily as well. 2. A well-balanced diet A glowing coat begins from the inside out. Your horse should receive a forage-first diet, with added vitamins, minerals and protein, to support optimum health and muscle development. Quality forage sources, such as pasture and hay, should form the bulk of your horse’s diet. Every horse should receive at least 1.5% of their body weight in forage per day.  However, forage sources may be deficient in essential vitamins and minerals. A well-balanced complete feed or ration balancer may be necessary, but be cautious of unwanted calories. For added shine, there are a number of quality plant-based oils that can be safely fed to horses. Stabilised rice bran, vegetable, canola or coconut oil are recommended. Ensure your horse also has access to unlimited fresh, clean drinking water. 3. Regular health care Often, a dull coat is the first sign of ill-health. Any horse in poor body condition as a result of parasites, malnutrition or an underlying health problem simply isn’t ‘show ready’. Throughout the year, your horse should receive regular de-worming and any required vaccinations, along with professional teeth and hoof care. Prior to the show, check the vaccination and any interstate travel requirements to ensure your horse is protected around unfamiliar horses.  4. Mane and tail care With correct mane and tail care, your horse’s locks will be the envy of everyone in the show ring! In addition to daily grooming, regular conditioning and rugging will promote soft, healthy hair. When grooming your horse’s mane and tail, use a detangler to remove knots easily. This will prevent hair breakage and make grooming more pleasant for your horse. A mild conditioner can be rubbed into your horse’s tail every few days to soften brittle hairs. Use a tail bag prior to the show to protect their tail from any new debris. Harsh shampoos, sprays and soaps deplete your horse’s coat, mane and tail of natural oils. If bathing is required, use water and a soft brush to remove sweat and dirt. 5. The final preparations The day before the show is your last chance to clean and clip your horse! If your horse requires any clipping around the face, ears, throat, bridle path or hooves, this can be done the day before. However, muzzle hairs should not be removed. If your horse is white or has any white areas, such as socks, mane or tail, use a whitening shampoo the day before, then apply leg wraps or rug as needed. Lastly, bathe your horse the night before so they’re ready to go straight onto the float the next morning. Use a lightweight rug and tail bag to keep their coat clean.

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What Type of Salt is Safe for Horses?

While there are a number of supplements available containing sodium and chloride, common table salt can be used to meet your horse’s daily requirement. However, for those horses in regular training or competition, additional electrolytes should also be considered. In this article, we explain how salt and electrolytes restore mineral balance. To understand the importance of sodium and chloride, which are found in common table salt, we need to take a closer look at your horse’s cells. Outside the cell, within the extracellular fluid, you’ll find sodium and chloride. Inside the cell, you’ll find potassium. Sodium and potassium are both positively charged ions and when in balance, maintain an internal electronic charge of negative. Together, balanced concentrations of sodium and potassium support normal neuromuscular and musculoskeletal function. Health and performance difficulties arise when sodium becomes deficient and, as a result, the body expels potassium in its place. Salt A 500kg horse requires 10 grams of sodium and 40 grams of chloride per day. However, when other factors are also taken into consideration, such as diet, workload and time of year, your horse’s daily requirement for salt can increase immensely. Sodium and chloride are lost via sweat and urine. An insufficient diet, combined with a heavy workload during Summer, can rapidly deplete sodium and chloride levels. Likewise, in transit, horses may perspire and urinate, in turn, losing valuable sodium and chloride. If not replaced, sodium and chloride deficiency may lead to a number of problems, including: Dehydration Heat stress Electrolyte imbalances Impaction Colic Incoordination Unsteady gait Difficulty chewing Muscle weakness Weight loss Decreased milk production To meet your horse’s daily requirement for salt, common table salt can easily be added to their daily feeds. Containing approximately 39% sodium and 61% chloride, 30 grams of common table salt will provide a 500kg horse with 11.7 grams of daily sodium. Electrolytes However, while the addition of salt to your horse’s feed will be adequate in maintaining sodium and chloride levels, common table salt is insufficient in replenishing sweat losses. Amongst the electrolytes present in horse sweat, sodium, chloride and potassium are often lost at the highest quantities. Following any activity that resulted in heavy sweating, an electrolyte replacer should be given at the recommended dose to replace lost electrolytes.

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What Do I Need to Feed My Horse for a Shiny Coat?

Are you dreaming of a head-turning, healthful and shiny coat for your horse? A glowing coat is a symbol of health and must be nurtured from the inside out with correct and balanced nutrition. However, the steps to a shiny coat don’t end there. In this article, we share our top three tips for show-ready shine. Tip 1: Nutrition A well-balanced diet is a cornerstone of your horse’s health. For a vibrant coat, their diet should be rich in fibre and fat, fortified with vitamins and minerals, and low in sugar. Forage in the form of hay and pasture should be fed at a minimum of 1.5% of total body weight per day. For the competitive horse, consider a complete feed with added vitamins and minerals; for the easy-keeper, a ration balancer is recommended to avoid unwanted calories. To further enhance your horse’s shine, a quality high-fat oil that’s safe for horses, such as stabilised rice bran, can be supplemented. In addition, provide your horse with unlimited access to fresh, clean drinking water and promote water intake with salt granules or a salt block. Tip 2: Health Care A rough, dull coat is often one of the first signs of poor health. A well-balanced diet, as described above, must be supported with regular veterinary care throughout the year. De-worming, dental and hoof health are paramount in promoting health and wellbeing. In partnership with your veterinarian, develop a health care plan for your horse to protect them from preventable health conditions that deplete their coat’s natural shine. If you notice your horse’s coat is losing its glow, consult your veterinarian to determine if it’s linked to an underlying health problem. A rough, dull coat is a common symptom of parasites, difficulty chewing or digesting food, gastric ulcers and metabolic conditions. Tip 3: Daily Groom Lastly, the final step to that enviable shine is in your hands. A vigorous daily groom will remove excess hair, dirt and dry skin to reveal a brilliant shine ready for the show ring. Using a curry comb, followed by a body brush, grooming stimulates the coat’s natural oils to produce a healthful, shiny coat. To shield your horse’s coat from harmful UV rays and preserve your hard work, a lightweight fly sheet is suggested during daytime turnout. By grooming your horse daily, you will also be alerted to any bites, injuries or skin conditions that diminish coat quality. To promote optimum coat health, avoid harsh shampoos and sprays, limit unnecessary bathing, and rinse and disinfect grooming brushes regularly.

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Do I Need to Feed My Horse Salt?

Without sodium and chloride — two components of common table salt — your horse is at increased risk of mineral imbalance, dehydration and impaction colic. As horses endure the persistent Summer heat and humidity, the potential for these health problems also rises. In this article, we discuss the critical role of salt and how much your horse requires per day. While sodium and chloride are both present in salt, discussions around the importance of salt often focus on sodium, which is one of the most important minerals your horse requires for countless bodily functions that support optimum health. These include: Hydration Healthy weight and body condition Blood volume, sugar and pH Transmission of glucose Nerve and musculoskeletal function Hormone and mineral balance Healthy coat and hooves  Typically, horses require approximately 10 grams, or two level teaspoons of salt, per day. However, any horse’s individual need for salt can dramatically increase to four teaspoons or more daily, depending on their diet, workload and the time of year. For example, sodium is easily lost via sweat. For horses in heavy training or regular competition, sodium loss must be managed to prevent health problems and performance deficits. However, even horses standing idle in the paddock in times of extreme heat can become sodium deficient. Sodium Deficiency Of the health problems associated with sodium deficiency, incoordination, unsteady gait and difficulty chewing are the most dramatic. However, inadequate sodium intake can also lead to severe mineral imbalances and aggravate existing conditions in some horses. When sodium is deficient, the adrenal gland releases aldosterone, which compels the kidneys to excrete potassium in place of sodium, which creates an imbalance. Sodium deficiency can also exacerbate anhydrosis, tying up and rapid heart rate. Supplementing Salt A horse deficient in salt may seek out items containing traces of salt, including human hands. If salt intake isn’t increased in response to sodium deficiency, this behaviour — known as pica — can escalate, leading a horse to lick and chew all manner of objects. Unfortunately, diet alone isn’t enough to provide horses with adequate salt. Most commercial feeds contain only 0.5-1% salt and pasture soils in Australia usually provide only half the recommended daily intake of sodium, leaving many horses deficient. It is recommended that salt is supplemented in two ways, including: By adding 10 or more grams divided across your horse’s daily feeds By hanging a free choice salt block designed for soft horse tongues Be mindful that horses should always have access to fresh, clean drinking water when provided with supplemented salt. With readily available water, your horse cane regulate their salt levels.

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My One Week Old Foal Has Diarrhoea. What Should I Do?

At one week of age, a compromised immune system can leave young foals exposed to bacterial and viral infections that can severely debilitate their health. In this article, we discuss the common infections in young foals that lead to infectious diarrhoea.  We will not discuss diarrhoea caused by the mare coming into season called “Foal Heat Diarrhoea”. During the first 24 hours of life, your young foal has a very open gut that is capable of absorbing large molecules. While nature has provided this to facilitate absorption of antibodies contained in the mare’s colostrum, it can also expose an unprotected immune system to bacteria.  Within the first six hours following birth, the young foal relies on colostrum to build a robust and resilient immune system. However, inadequate antibodies and an unclean environment allow entry of bacteria into the gut which, once ingested, may be transferred across to the bloodstream. Bacterial and viral infections can affect foals of all ages. The age of your foal is an important factor — not only for their chances of survival, but also when considering the type of infection present, its treatment and, most importantly, its prevention. Rotavirus Rotavirus is a common cause of diarrhoea in foals older than one week of age. Ingested from the environment, it’s usually shed by other infected foals. Rotavirus can cause severe, fluid-losing (watery) diarrhoea, but can be treated effectively with supportive therapy. Treatment involves fluids to replace lost water and electrolytes. At times, antibiotics may also be given to prevent additional bacterial infections. The infected foal should be isolated until they’ve fully recovered to stop the spread of the virus, and any other bacterial or viral infections. Rotavirus may be prevented with vaccination, given to the pregnant mare at eight, nine and 10 months gestation. The vaccine works by building protective antibodies within the colostrum that safeguard the newborn foal’s immune system from birth. Salmonella & Clostridia Salmonella and two strains of clostridia — C. perfringens and C. difficile — can also affect foals around one week of age. Both of these bacterial infections can be life-threatening to any foal less than seven days old, without immediate treatment. While salmonella is spread by contaminated faecal matter, usually from the mare, the two strains of clostridia survive as spores in the environment. Once ingested, they produce toxins that may invade the gastrointestinal tract, where they can severely harm the young foal. Treatment with antibiotics may be effective if administered early. Antibiotic therapy may also be used as a preventative measure with success. However, it’s imperative all foals receive adequate colostrum at birth for the highest chance of survival in the face of bacterial and viral infection. Treating Diarrhoea Early intervention is critical in the treatment of diarrhoea. At the first signs of diarrhoea, systemic illness or depression, call your veterinarian immediately. In most cases, a young foal with severe diarrhoea will be treated at an intensive care facility, following a veterinary examination. 

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My Mare’s Placenta is Out. What Does a Normal Placenta Look Like?

The three stages of labour are, thankfully, over. However, as you examine the placenta on a flat surface, you find yourself questioning if its entirety has been expelled. In this article, we discuss the placenta and why you should alert your veterinarian at the first signs of trouble. A complete placenta almost embodies the shape of a foal in utero, with a lengthy body, two long horns and the umbilical cord. The parts of the placenta include: The cervical star The pregnant horn The non-pregnant horn The umbilical cord The body of the uterus It is understood that parturition and the rupture of the umbilical cord initiate the passing of the placenta and allow the uterus to shrink in size. Upon expulsion, the placenta should appear intact, with no signs of trauma. However, even minor tears that aren’t obvious to the untrained eye, may indicate a serious problem. If in doubt when examining your mare’s placenta, call your veterinarian straightaway. They will be able to assess if the placenta has been fully passed. Any mare that hasn’t expelled the placenta within three hours of birth requires immediate veterinary treatment. A Retained Placenta During a normal birthing, strong uterine contractions will continue after the foal has been delivered to enable your mare to pass the foetal membranes, or placenta. At times, a complete or partial retained placenta may occur, with potentially devastating consequences. Usually, retained foetal membranes follow a difficult birth, or dystocia. The uterus fatigues and your mare is simply unable to expel the placenta on her own. However, abortions, still births and foal deaths following birth are often implicated in retained foetal membranes. If not treated within 12 hours of parturition, the reproductive health of your mare — and her very life — are at risk. Inside the uterus, retained foetal membranes can quickly lead to infection, toxic metritis and laminitis. At 24 hours, a retained placenta can be deadly. Treating a Retained Placenta Only a veterinarian should treat a complete or partial retained placenta. Forced removal of any part of the placenta by hand can lead to haemorrhage and even death, so it is never advised to attempt to manually remove the foetal membranes on your own. If you notice any foetal membranes protruding from your mare’s vulva, knot them carefully to ensure they aren’t stepped on by mare or foal, and call your veterinarian. They will assess the degree of retention and put into action a treatment plan for its careful removal.

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